A rising voice in the next generation of fashion designers, Florentina Leitner has joined the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode’s Sphère showroom for Paris Fashion Week with a collection that reimagines female resistance. Titled Jeanne, her latest offering is a tribute to Joan of Arc—but in Leitner’s version, the young heroine escapes the flames. Instead of martyrdom, she emerges as an edgy, floral-clad figure of resilience.

With her signature blend of romanticism and wit, Leitner presents a wardrobe that includes faux fur coats, printed catsuits, and whimsical dresses—all imbued with a gender-fluid sensibility. Here, she speaks with us about launching her eponymous label, the power of visibility, and why emerging designers must embrace both tradition and bold self-promotion.

LNB: What gave you the confidence to launch your brand?

Leitner:  The idea to start my own label came when retailers reached out to buy my Master’s collection. That kind of early interest from the industry gave me the courage to go for it. At the time, I was working at Dries Van Noten, which I loved—such a brilliant team, and a valuable experience. But this was 2021, in the middle of the pandemic, and I thought: if not now, when? It felt like the right moment to take the leap.

LNB: And how many collections have you released since then?

Leitner:  If I count the Master’s collection—which I do, because it was the first one that sold—Jeanne is my fifth season. But it’s my first with Sphère and only the second time I’m officially showing during Paris Fashion Week. Before that, we showed once in London, during a phase when I was still experimenting with different opportunities. I always knew Paris would be the end goal, though—and now, here we are.

LNB: Can you tell us about any special projects you’re working on?

Leitner:  I’m currently working on an exciting collaboration with Dorotheum, the Viennese auction house. It’s a historic institution—like the Austrian version of Sotheby’s—and they’ve invited me to create an art installation inspired by classical paintings. I’ll be reinterpreting garments from several works and unveiling them during a special event this October. It’s still early days, but it’s a beautiful opportunity to merge fashion with fine art in a very tangible way.

LNB: What advice would you offer to young designers starting out?

Leitner: Be proactive. Approach people. Share your work. I believe so strongly in being open and visible—especially through social media. A lot of people I know feel self-conscious about posting, but honestly, it’s essential. Your future clients and supporters aren’t only at Fashion Week; they’re everywhere. You have to give people the chance to discover you. And that means being present both online and offline, inside the industry and outside of it.

LNB: As an emerging brand, what have you found most valuable about using a digital platform like LE NEW BLACK?

Leitner: The line sheets—without a doubt. Before, I was creating them manually in InDesign, and it was so time-consuming. With LE NEW BLACK, I can upload my products, add the relevant information, and generate polished exports instantly.

It’s also made sharing so much easier. I can send a showroom link directly to buyers without worrying about transferring massive files. That’s a game-changer when you’re managing everything yourself.

Another benefit is discovery. The platform lets me explore retailers by country—boutiques I might not have found otherwise. Everyone knows Selfridges, but not everyone knows the smaller, more niche concept stores that are often more open to working with emerging designers. That kind of visibility into the market is really helpful when you’re building your network.

LNB: And finally, where can readers find your pieces?
Leitner:  We currently stock in six locations. In Vienna, there’s Wolfmich—which means a lot to me, as it's my hometown. Then we have Shyness Space in the UK, Sauce in Dubai, Spark Le Monde in Hungary, and both Groovin and I Visionari in Italy.